Monday, June 4, 2018

from Hot Springs, SD to Cody, WY


Today was a wild day the likes of which I’m not anxious to repeat – in this lifetime or the next. I lost a camera and almost lost a dog and I’m really bummed about the first and grateful that the second never came to pass.

But the day started out really cool! Before we left our lovely KOA in Hot Springs, we let them fix us breakfast. I honestly don’t remember what I ate, but surely do remember the conversation!

A little “backstory”: Though we had a near-perfect experience, staying in one of the cabins, we did occasionally notice the faint and unmistakable smell of cat urine in the campground. But we never saw any cats. I became convinced that maybe during a trip to town, some feral kitty had “marked” my tires. Or maybe while in town I’d accidentally stepped in grass that had been similarly christened, and the smell had lingered on my boot. Except I never noticed the smell inside the cabin, and my boots were in the cabin at night. And I didn’t really notice that the smell got any stronger when I was near the car. So … ? Sue, meanwhile, theorized that maybe the needles from the pine trees were giving off a funky smell.

Back to breakfast, where we couldn’t help but overhear the casual conversation between the cook and a man who was probably the campground owner, or perhaps a manager. And they began talking about the mountain lion who’d been seen poking around in town.

Huh? Come again? “There are mountain lions this close to town?”

“Ah, sure,” came the reply. “We’ve recently spotted one around here too.”

Cat urine smell mystery solved. Yikes.

On toward Devils Tower, in the northeast corner of Wyoming. But first, a quick spin through Sturgis, home of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Sturgis is a very prettyish little (pop. about 7000) town for most of the year, but for 10 days each August, it becomes the site of a MASSIVE event that draws about three-quarters of a million bikers to the area! Honestly, I cannot even imagine, but we did see preparations already being made for the “invasion.” Between the throngs of people, the blast of pipes, and rock music blaring out from each saloon, it must be incredibly loud in Sturgis. But fun. But L.O.U.D. (Think I’ll pass.)


So, Devils Tower. The very first place to be designated a National Monument, its history as a sacred place to Northern Plains tribes and to the Kiowa Tribe goes back thousands of years. To this day, sacred ceremonies such as sweat lodges and sun dances are held here. Approaching, I got the sense of it being almost a beacon, drawing people to it.


Closer to it, it’s awe-inspiring, though in a different way. It’s favored by rock-climbers, although Sue and I were grateful that during the entire month of June a voluntary climbing closure is in place, to show respect to Native Americans who regard Devils Tower, aka Bears Lodge, as sacred.



Since before memory, the place has been known as Bears Tipi because of the abundance of bears living in the area. Each tribe – including Cheyenne, Arapahoe, Crow, and Lakota – has its own legend as to how the tower came to be1, but my favorite legend comes from the Kiowa (who from long ago once lived in the Northern Great Plains before migrating south to Colorado and then to the Southern Plains, eventually being moved by treaty to Oklahoma):

“Before the Kiowa came south they were camped on a stream in the far north where there were a great many bears, many of them. One day, seven little girls were playing at a distance from the village and were chased by some bears. The girls ran toward the village and the bears were just about to catch them when the girls jumped on a low rock, about three feet high. One of the girls prayed to the rock, "Rock take pity on us, rock save us!" The rock heard them and began to grow upwards, pushing the girls higher and higher. When the bears jumped to reach the girls, they scratched the rock, broke their claws, and fell on the ground.
“The rock rose higher and higher, the bears still jumped at the girls until they were pushed up into the sky, where they now are, seven little stars in a group (The Pleiades). In the winter, in the middle of the night, the seven stars are right over this high rock. When the people came to look, they found the bears' claws, turned to stone, all around the base.
“No Kiowa living has ever seen this rock, but the old men have told about it - it is very far north where the Kiowa used to live. It is a single rock with scratched sides, the marks of the bears' claws are there yet, rising straight up, very high. There is no other like it in the whole country, there are no trees on it, only grass on top. The Kiowa call this rock ‘Tso-aa’, a tree rock, possibly because it grew tall like a tree.”
as told by I-See-Many-Camp-Fire-Places, Kiowa soldier at Fort Sill, Oklahoma, 1897.
Sue set out to hike around the base of Devils Tower, while I found a shady spot to hang with the Henry-Dog, who was forbidden to be on the hiking path.
  

And while we hung out in our private little spot, I discovered that my stupid water bottle with its easy flip-top had leaked and that my camera was sitting in a small pool of water at the bottom of my daypack. Without thinking, I grabbed the camera and turned it on and probably fried its circuitry, because now it won’t work at all. I’m very disappointed in myself, for all sorts of reasons, but I can’t let it get me down because there’s still a LOT of interesting territory to cover on this trip. And I do have a very serviceable camera on my smartphone.

Still … grrrrr …

After Sue returned, I made the choice not to hike the base for myself, even though she really enjoyed herself. I just wasn’t in the mood, and didn’t think that the walk would do anything to improve my mood. So we set out toward Cody.

We passed through miles and miles of seeming emptiness, until we finally exited the interstate near Buffalo. In short order, we entered the Bighorn National Forest, and kept steadily climbing, until we reached Powder River Pass, at an elevation of about 10,000 feet. It was here that I saw a large patch of snow on a hillside, musing out loud that Henry would probably enjoy playing in the snow just a little bit. And it was here that I almost lost my dog.
  

He really is a very, very good dog, perfect on voice command, so I walked him on lead over to the snow patch away from the highway and then let him off lead.


Predictably, he bounded happily around; almost as predictably, he stopped to take a dump. Knowing that I just couldn’t leave a brown, steaming pile in the middle of all that pristine white, I followed him onto the snow, when all of a sudden he bolted and almost instantly was out of sight. I yelled for him to stop, but the roar of the wind prevented him from hearing me. I couldn’t run after him, because I’d have probably fallen on the slightly icy snow and tumbled down the slope, so I yelled for Sue to give chase.

For what seemed like an interminable length of time, although in reality it was probably mere seconds, my dog was nowhere to be found and my mind raced: What if he fell over a cliff? What if he ran away? Would I have to leave him in Wyoming to fend for himself? I was very, very shaken.

However, soon enough Sue appeared, Henry’s collar firm within her grasp. Having cleaned up his mess I walked off the snow field to give Sue his leash. Curious, I walked to the top of the hill to see if I could figure out what he was so determinedly chasing. I saw a marmot nearby, so I’m thinking that was the thing.

It may be a couple of days before my heart beats normally again!

Drama over, tragedy averted, I snapped a couple of pictures of Flowers That Grow at 10,000’,


then we all piled back into the car for the final miles into Cody. I do enjoy non-interstate travel ever so much! Especially when your journey takes you through forest and farm country and charming little towns like Ten Sleep.

Now in Cody, which is fairly touristy, but still manages a homey sort of vibe. We chose to have dinner at the Irma Hotel, built by none other than William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, who called it “just the sweetest hotel that ever was.” There was rainbow trout, chicken pot pie, and meatloaf on the menu, plus steaks and ribs, of course. Although the interior is ornate in the style of the early 1900s in which it was built, the atmosphere is a little more “down-home” and friendly. So much so that our waitress gave us the extra glasses of Malbec that the bartender had mistakenly poured.
  

I imagine that the memories of the fried camera and the almost-lost pet will fade in time, to be replaced with memories of magical spaces and historical places.


More photos from the Forces of Nature Tour at Flickr.
Click here.



 


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