Tuesday, June 5, 2018

from Cody, WY to Yellowstone National Park to Cooke City, MT


Oh boy! As much fun as the trip has been so far, this is the part I have been most excited about: visiting storied Yellowstone Park.

And so far, it has been everything I expected, with a few twists. We left Cody to start making the gradual climb to the east entrance of Yellowstone. The drive alone was so scenic!


We briefly stopped at Sylvan Pass, at an altitude of 8,254’, where I snapped these photos:



And not too far beyond, I spied this glimmering jewel of a lake, lying to the left of our road. The sight quite literally took my breath away.


This is Eleanor Lake, which sits below Avalanche Peak (alt. 10,568’) and it’s just so beautiful, and the smell of balsam so heavenly, I would have happily stayed here all day long. Henry, too, was happy here, as he had another chance to play in the snow – safely on lead this time!

Next up was Sylvan Lake, which promised good birding opportunities for Sue, so we stopped. Henry’s not so much into just watching birds, as you can imagine; anything he spies he’s likely to chase, so to give Sue some quality birding time, Henry and I went across the road. The altitude here is over 8000’, and the snow is just now starting to melt. I saw a little stream of snow-melt, which Henry seemed much more interested in drinking from, rather than wading in. We spied some pretty yellow flowers, and a tiny snow sculpture which someone had left on a picnic table, then went back across the road to find Sue studying goldeneye and mergansers.



Leaving Sylvan Lake, we soon came upon Lake Yellowstone, which is the largest body of water inside Yellowstone N.P. and sits at an altitude of well over 7000’. It’s quite deep, but I guess its depth is constantly changing because in the last 15 years or so the ground under the lake has started to rise significantly. Apparently there are all sorts of faults and small craters and hot springs under a “bulge” in one section of the lake. And you see some evidence of the geothermal activity – the hot springs – in little steam plumes along the shore of the lake.


At this point, I became very aware of just how potentially dangerous a place is Yellowstone. And just to drive home the point, you see these signs EVERYWHERE:
  

I’d never really thought of it this way before now, but ordinarily when you go to a park, the “living things” are the animals and the trees and flowers and so forth. Here at Yellowstone, the land itself is an active, living thing, constantly changing, perhaps even to be considered volatile. You do read about the Yellowstone Caldera (a caldera being a large volcanic crater that has formed after a major eruption) and you read how Yellowstone, and a lot of the surrounding region, sits on top of a massive volcano that, when it blows eventually, will release massive amounts of ash that will blot out the sun and lead to the end of life on Earth as we currently know it. Whoah

But then they say, “Not to worry, it’s unlikely to happen within the next 500,000 years.” But they’ll add that no one really knows …

So here’s my personal take on the whole thing: If this thing blows while I’m here, what a spectacular way to go! I will be the envy of all my friends, especially once world-wide famine hits and they’re slowing starving to death. Or maybe freezing to death, because Earth would get pretty darn cold if the sun can’t warm it.

Sobering, but I prefer to look at it in a more good-humored light. One thing’s for sure: My attitude toward this “act of Nature” isn’t gonna affect Nature, so I might as well choose happy.

Even more cool sights after Lake Yellowstone, like LeHardy’s Rapids



and STINKY sights like Dragon's Mouth Spring, mud pots, and the Sulphur Caldron. 

Steam rising from Dragon's Mouth Spring. In the video below you'll hear the "rhythmic belching" of steam and the bubble of muddy, boiling water. What I can't share with you is is the accompanying stench of sulfur. You're welcome.




We followed the road to Tower Junction, then turned east through the Lamar Valley toward Cooke City. Saw a herd of elk grazing, a grizzly with two cubs, a black bear, a coyote, and countless bison.



Driving through Yellowstone, it’s inevitable that you’ll get caught in a “Bison Jam,” where the bison decide to cross the road and you will just wait, silly humans! Or a “Bear Jam” where someone has spied a bear way off in a field somewhere, and others have stopped to gawk along with them. We saw a man with a high-powered spotting scope trained on a high hillside, and decided to stop to see if we could figure out what he was looking at. He generously allowed us to look through his scope, which was trained on a grizzly with her cub. I’d NEVER have seen them, without the aid of that scope!

Which leads me to remark on my growing awareness of a little sub-culture among Yellowstone visitors, the ones who spend their time not visiting Old Faithful but intensely studying / tracking the wildlife. Fun pastime. I don’t have the patience.

Arriving in Cooke City (alt. 7608) we went to check in at the Soda Butte Lodge, where I’d SO looked forward to staying, only to be informed that they absolutely would not permit Henry to stay there – even though at the time the reservation was made, they’d said they would allow dogs. What to do? What to do? Accommodations are not exactly plentiful around Yellowstone, and pet-friendly accommodations can be hard to come by, anywhere. Luckily, Sue sweet-talked the desk clerk at the Alpine Motel into the last room available on the property. He’d need to prep the room first, so we went across the street to Miners Saloon.


Miners Saloon is everything you’d hope to find in this frontiersy sort of village, and maybe more: Grateful Dead music playing over the loudspeakers, a youngish bartender who had an old soul and seemed fiercely independent, lots of wood, and odd memorabilia stuffed into every conceivable nook and cranny. And unusual, and definitely not health-conscious menu offerings. We’d decided on pizza, though you may be scratching your head as to why we’d seek pizza so far away from New York City – I mean, this town is almost the anti-New York, if you know what I mean. And although I wouldn’t ordinarily order an appetizer (except, maybe, a salad) before a pizza, we simply could not pass up the strange kind of “loaded fries” that were topped with Velveeta and spicy Cheetos.

No judging! I already told you the meal was not health-conscious! Cold-Smoke Scotch Ale, featuring Montana-grown barley, was the drink of choice. And the pizza? “Redneck Pizza,” featuring several different types of meat and which was actually a fairly credible pizza – not Long Island pizza, but pizza – and was pretty tasty!

We checked into our room, which is spartan but charming in its way – maybe “rustic” is a more apt description.

Then we headed back to Lamar Valley, where we actually got to see a small pack of wolves. From afar. But wolves!

So today’s Wildlife Count:
1 Coyote
1 Fox
1 Black Bear
2 Moose
4 Wolves
5 Grizzlies
A herd of Elk
Tons (literally) of Bison

And a starlit sky to finish the night. Bliss!

More photos from the Forces of Nature Tour at Flickr.
Click here.



 


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